Elewijt, Belgium

As most people now know, we arrived back in Belgium early evening of Friday 13th.... after an unexpected 24hour stopover in Madrid!The flight from Quito - Madrid was almost 3 hours late in arriving, so our connection to Brussels was long gone.  The only remaining Iberia flight to Brussels was full and there was an Iberia Pilots strike on the morning of the 13th....which meant the next flight available, with pilot, was 16.00 on the 13th, exactly 24 hours 'late'.

However we were quite happy - we were really tired from the long flight (in Economy!!), the hotel was very comfortable (food less so!), and we managed to fit in a metro trip into the centre and have a couple of hours walking around - our first visit to Madrid, definitely to be repeated, we were very impressed (if rather cold!).

We find it very difficult once again to pinpoint the highlight of this trip to Ecuador - there were for us so many.  The Galapagos is exceptional; our Amazon jungle trip was great; the Andes in particular we also loved (if I didn't seem to suit the 3000m and plus too well) - the markets (we'll never forget the sheep arriving on TOP of  the bus), the people and the scenery.   Visiting a country like this does bring you down to earth a bit in terms of what we all have here in Europe compared to so many others, our health systems etc - we might complain but we are SO lucky.  The coast we enjoyed less, but were very happy (and grateful) with the 12 nights in Puerto Lopez as it was so peaceful and the hostel excellent and we were in need of a rest by the time we arrived there.  Our last stopover near Esmeraldas was less in terms of location due to the hectic Easter weekend which was initially a great disappointment,  but our Belgian hostel host made it more than worthwhile by taking us to his nearby farm plus a day out to the mangroves etc.

So, these really are the last photos (unexpected photos too!)

Esmeraldas, Ecuador

Friday 6th April, we travelled from Canoa to Tonsupa, which is located between Atacames and Esmeraldas on the north coast.  This area of the coast (north, around Esmeraldas) is very different from further south in that there is a much larger black population (as a result of all the slaves brought here long ago) and there is much more of an African air about the place, everyone very friendly.  A quieter spot than its two better known neighbours - but this was not evident on Friday, being the start of the Easter weekend and boy do the Ecuadorians like to party!  Not only all the cafes/restaurants (of which there are MANY) find a need to blast the music out, you get the odd car with enormous speakers in the boot and they just stop where they want, get their alcohol and stand around the car talking (???), dancing etc.  Our hearts sank when we arrived here, Canoa suddenly seemed such a lovely quiet spot!!

We had left a very cloudy Canoa but the weather improved as we went north and by the time we got to Tonsupa it was a clear blue sky and very hot and humid.  We needed  to get 3 buses on Friday - Canoa to Pedernales, then on to Chamanga and finally on to Tonsupa.  All in all around 6 hours - never waiting more than 15 minutes for a bus to depart.  We didn't see much of Pedernales as it was a quick bus change in the station, but in Chamanga there was no station (and no other bus in sight...) so we had to ask and wait in the (small) town for the bus to arrive, so we had a chance to look around a little.   This was a town apart from any other somehow - there are lakes all around and it appears to be built on a dam (our assumption, difficult to see everything).  Lots of houses on stilts into the muddy water; fishing town - which always seems to mean everyone is hanging around doing nothing all day and there seems to be only one real dusty street.

The hostel we stayed in, Via Via, is owned by a very nice Dutch guy who like so many of the foreigners here, has no end of plans for things to do at the hostel (with most of these people even I find the number of varied ideas they all have quite mind boggling!).  He has an enormous room on the 2nd floor where he wants to hold therapy sessions (he is also a therapist), music/art events for the locals, seminar location, and just about all you could do in such a spot.  We couldn't help feeling the area would have made a wonderful restaurant as there was place for a kitchen also, plus a large terrace all around and of course there was a better view than downstairs to the sea (the hostel was about 100m from the coastal boulevard, thank goodness).  The hostel is currently very basic but clean and all rooms have en-suite (hot water!) bathrooms.  For $10 pp, pn you really cannot complain - especially as this was for them high season.  We did miss not having a ventilator here though as the nights were also still very warm.  There is a very good restaurant (just one lady works at the hostel cooking, cleaning and whatever is needed - she is lovely!) and we always ate here - for the company of our host, two young girls who are staying there as part of their university/college courses, and the cook as well as for the excellent food she provided.

Guide, our host, also has a bio farm about 10 minutes away from the hostel, in the wonderful countryside.  Once again he has no end of ideas for this large plot - growing as many trees/bushes from the original area as possible; as many fruit trees as he can, plus peanuts, birds eye chili pepers (large bush - Rob's was very jealous!), etc etc; creating a small farm of local animals for visiting children (i.e. wild pigs; chickens, goats...), and - when time and money permits, creating a couple of cabins up on the hill for visitors - the views are then wonderful.   He took us to the farm Saturday money which was a welcome relief from the noise of Tonsupa - we made a very muddy walk through the plot and one has to admire all the intentions!

Saturday pm I went for a walk along the beach - horrendous!  The tide was in, so in places there wasn't so much beach left and it was literally a case of walking over and round bodies, tents, and just about all you could ever think you would find on a beach.  Unfortunately I didn't have the camera to catch this wonder!  At least by the sea, the booming cafes were not so loud.

Sunday we stayed in Tonsupa - in fact the Monday is not a holiday so a lot of people start to go home already on the Sunday morning in the hope of avoiding the large queues for traffic back to Quito apparently.  We went for a long walk on the other side of the beach and it was much quieter already.

Monday Guido took us and one of the girls for a trip out - we went to Muisne, which is an island, about half an hour away.  Guido had worked here in the town hall for 2 years so knows a lot of people still.    We walked around to visit a couple of people he knew, and then took a boat ride for an hour to the local mangroves.  We visited a shrimp farm (didn't see one shrimp, but believes the facts we were give as to the hundreds of thousands that were in the lakes!), of which there are hundreds here around.  The boat dropped us off on a beautiful beach and we made an hours walk to a restaurant on the other side of the island to where we had been before.  We stopped to have some fresh coconut juice along the way - the guy had literally just cut them from the tree, fabulous and the timing was perfect as it was so hot.  We had an excellent lunch in a beach side cafe Guide knows and then got a motor taxi back to the other side of the island, for our short ferry trip back to the mainland.   Guido then took us on a different route back towards Tonsupa - an extremely bumpy unmade road, but very interesting scenery and villages/housing en-route.  We stopped to visit an Australian guy who is living in the area.  He doesn't have such an enormous plot of land but is also trying to bring the forest on his land back to how it was originally.  He gets students coming to stay who then work on the plot with him for a few weeks.  Again someone with enormous ideas!

Tuesday we returned to Tumbaco, near Quito.  Unfortunately this was a more painful bus journey - the first bus was only at 10.30 from Tonsupa and of course (being anyhow a very long trip) it was nearly half an hour late.  It was an old bus and had limited airco (I think only our second trip with airco mind you, but as we had been told about the great buses with their airco etc, it was a disappointment!); not sure if it was just the driver or also the bus, but it went so slowly - we had been told we could arrive around 5 and it was almost 7pm!  They have the habit of putting awful films on on these buses - one time we had 3 Rambo films, one after the other - and this time the guy put two awfully violent, noisy films on, such a shame when there were quite some kids on the bus, but I don't think that is important for them.   We got a reasonable meal near the station and then our taxi lady picked us up to bring us 'home'.  It must have been a good 8.30 before we got here, so we were very tired!  Nice to catch up with Dirk and Maira here though and of course they wanted to know exactly what route we had ended up following.

Here are the last photos....

Canoa, Ecuador

We had to take 2 buses to get from Puerto Lopez to Canoa (despite the lovely guy at the bus 'station' assuring us it could be done with one bus - as our hostel hosts had thought, it took 2!), changing in Puerto Viejo.  Our experiences on the buses have remained positive and the bus in Puerto Viejo for Canoa was next to the one we arrived in, and left after some 5-6 minutes!  It was a distance of maybe 200Km (need to check this!), but took altogether almost 6 hours.  There was some nice scenery but we have left the dramatic scenery back inland!

The hotel (not sure why the guy calls it a hotel as for me it was more of a hostel than other places we have stayed in!) is right on the beach.  It is owned and run by a Dutch guy (odd ball!) and quite well done with a couple of small 'cabanas' in the garden and a few rooms in the main part of the building.  We were lucky to have a downstairs room in one of the little houses, though we weren't convinced of this on the 3rd night when the upstairs 'crew' arrived home after midnight, very noisy and at first sounding like they were going to continue whatever party they had been to, but they quietened down after a while.

Canoa is a surfing town so it attracts a lot of youth and has a lot of noisy 'cafes' along the beach, after our lovely quiet hostel in Puerto Lopez, this was a shock (mind you we didn't know where we were going later, but thats for the next instalment!).  There is a nice outside restaurant area at the hostel and an area under cover but the staff were generally not so friendly until they had us around for 2-3 days, then they got better.  Not customer minded like  the Puerto Lopez hostel though and considering it cost us virtually the same to stay here, one can't help comparing.  The hostel rooms were extremely basic, there were hammocks in the garden but I wouldn't recommend anyone to lie in them as they didn't look too healthy!!  I didn't really feel that this hostel was offering anything special for the money though.

Canoa has nothing to offer outside of the surf, it used to be a fishing village and our guidebook had described it as part fishing village/part touristy due to the surfing, but the touristy bit has seriously taken over!

We made some nice walks along the beach here and there were some shells around so we had fun selecting a few.  One day we stopped at a beach 'cafe' for a beer and liked the couple and felt the place was 'ok', so decided to eat here and it was very good.

We wouldn't go back and can't directly think of many we would recommend Canoa too - though the boys would no doubt enjoy the surf and it was certainly no where near as bad as Montanita which we visited the other day from Puerto Lopez!

Photos from trip from PL to Canoa and in Canoa.

Puerto Lopez, Ecuador

We have had a really wonderful, relaxing time in Puerto Lopez.  It is a small town, very dusty, with a great beach (shame the locals do NOT appreciate what they have - we have once commented the beach in town was the dirtiest beach we have ever seen); warm water; and a very laid back feeling.

The hostel, Mandala, has to rate amongst one of the best places we have ever stayed.  It has been created by a Swiss/Italian couple with enormous feeling and style.  Various chalets are located around beautiful gardens and the main building has been done in such a way that there is plenty to do SHOULD you be unlucky with the weather (books, games, games room, tv, musical room for the guests to use, etc).  The owners are very special and have 5 wonderful dogs - a black great dane, and 4 mixed breeds, all of whom follow their owners 3 times a day to the beach for a walk - otherwise generally relaxing and enjoying life too.

We have really not done much at all - each day 1 or 2 walks, visiting the local fish market on several occasions (vibrant), checking out the local restaurants (mostly dissappointing!  culinary delights are rare in Ecuador!), taking a couple of bus journeys to other towns south of here, and generally relaxing and enjoying life.

Photos from Puerto Lopez and surrounding areas.

Puerto Lopez, Ecuador

Tues 20/3 - Macondo hostel is great but the worst breakfast!  I needed something from a chemist this am - there really are just about one chemist on every corner in most towns!  Once we had worked out the local buses, we visited Cuenca's best museum - Pumapunga.  Great selection of exhibits, especially on the indigenous groups and their history, just a shame they don't make more attempt to put some English text as we missed out a lot because of this.  Their are Inca ruins around the museum and some lovely gardens.  Of course it was dry whilst we were in the museum and then poured heavily when in the gardens!  We walked back to the centre, past our Argentinian restaurant, and then went for a bad meal in town.

Wed 21/3 - we wanted to go to the main market today, especially as Wednesdays and Saturdays are seemingly very busy, but this was not recommended by the hostal, 'not a place for tourists'!  We have seen quite a few now so decided to take a bus (and the system with the one way roads takes some getting used to) to the panama hat factory (we had previously visited a small one but this is the principle one in town) and to check out our buses for tomorrow.  The factory was very interesting and of course we both ended up with a hat, of sorts!  We seemed to end up walking some miles in town today back and forth, and had a reasonably good meal in the centre. 

Thurs 22/3 - We have been really impressed by the Ecuadorian buses - their general quality; availability (multiple companies) and time-keeping and today was no exception.  We had a 3.5 hour drive from Cuenca via some of the best scenery I believe we have seen here (but so much is so beautiful) in the Cajas Park.  We reached dizzying heights of 4000+m and the weather was great, so lots of photos!  We were a bit unsure how we would get on in Guayaquil - it is an enormous bus station and completely new.  We asked around and were pointed in the direction of the 'Puerto Lopez' counter and then suddenly a guy took over and whisked us up 2 flights of stairs to a (literally) waiting bus.  He arranged for the cases to be put in the hold and rushed us onto the bus and into our seats and then asked us for the (expected) $10 fare.  He thrust 2 tickets in our hands and was gone, plus the bus left!!   When we looked at our tickets the time on the ticket was not for our departure time; the name of destination was not Puerto Lopez and it said the fare was $2.50 - so, you can imagine, I was sure we had been tricked!!  Visions of trickery in Spain came flooding back and I was so mad that we had been 'taken for a ride'!  BUT, oh me of little faith, it was all fine.  At one point the conductor came for the tickets so we thought 'this is it', but he took it, confirmed we WERE on our way to Puerto Lopez (as I even doubted that!) and so we sat back and relaxed, hardly believing our luck because we would never have made this bus on our own, it would have probably been for an hour or so later!

This journey was just over 4 hours and we had quite a lot of rain en-route.  We arrived in Puerto Lopez around 16.45, which we had not expected (we thought quite a bit later, we left Cuenca at 8.45).  We had a 'taxi' to the hostal (like in Thailand, only generally with a motorbike rather than a bicycle!) with the cases rocking away loose on the back!  The lovely guy stopped at the supermarket so I could hop out and buy some rum and cokes though, which was great!

This hostal is again amazing, and so far seems it in all ways, even though we do feel they are expensive for meals (taking benefit of being again out of town) but the food is quite good!  It is run by a Swiss/Italian couple, has beautiful gardens, chalets dotted around in the gardens, and is across a small, quiet, dusty road from a great beach!  Nothing else around and probably a 20min walk along the beach to the village.   To top it all, they have 5 magnificent dogs - 1 black great dane and 4 great dane 'mixtures' - they are all very quiet, lordly, and obviously enjoying their lives quite considerably!

It was extremely hot and humid when we arrived, but this is also due partly to the fatigue of travelling!  Of course, as we've said before, their is no such place as complete heaven - the mosquitos are awful in the evenings!!!  So we have a great terrace, but I doubt it will be used much - too warm and too 'mozzy' in the evenings!

Fri 23/3 - this is my last diary entry until we move on further up the coast to Canoa, on 3rd April.  The weather was great today and we quickly discovered that if you take a hammock to the beach (the hostel has about 10-12 open 'huts' on the beach), the shade and wind there is out of this world, even cool!!!  We really did nothing today and the time went very quickly, wonderful!

Photos from Cuenca and the journey to Puerto Lopez

Cuenca, Ecuador

14/3 - We left the wonderful blue skies and sunshine of tropical Vilcabamba (you have to understand why people do want to live here!) and headed back north to Loja, then changed buses to go (normally) 1.5hours east towards Zamora, which is back into the jungle.  We had a 2hr15m holdup due to a serious landslide (we had heard about this but had also heard it had been cleared...) about 40 minutes before Zamora.  The traffic was brought periodically to a complete halt so they could clear the road.   As soon as we left Loja we were into serious (rain) forestation/jungle - quite different to the Amazonian jungle area up north, this was more like pure forest.

We stayed for 4 nights at Copalinga, a Belgian run lodge about 3Km outside Zamora.  The Belgian couple brought this plot in 1999 and have built 10 beautiful cabins and a central restaurant/sitting/viewing area and have been open for business since 2005.  The husband has constructed an impressive electrical system, taking water from a nearby waterfall, bringing this towards the plot, letting it drop 90m to gain speed, running this via a turbine/alternator and ensuring he always has 2500 watt available.  Their is one electronic part of the system which controls the demand compared to the availability - he was helped here by the university in Loja - and this simply puts lights on/heats up heating elements to use any excess during quiet times at the lodge. 

The lodge is very well situated, about 2Km from the entrance to Podocarpus Park, which is beautiful.  It is an enormous park and we could have visited it from the Vilcabamba side also had we had more time there.  We spent one day in the park - as it was mid-week we had the place to ourselves (met one Portuguese lady only) and workers/2 mules!  They are constructing a new entry point to the park, about 1Km from the parking lot (which in itself is 100m short of where it normally was due to....yes.... a landslide!) and were using the 2 mules to move sand up to the entry point, poor beasts as the path wasn't always easy by any means.   On our return from the park we saw 4 young lads carrying large tiles from the parking area to a hut - distance of about 200m, but again not easy going (very muddy getting around the small landslide area).

We made a couple of walks on paths beloning to the lodge - oh so hilly here though (don't say it....) so we take our time getting around, stopping frequently to checking the plants/trees/any birds!!  We also spent a couple of hours with the lodge owner getting an introduction to how they had set everything up, not just the electricity, but water purification, compost etc. 

18/3 - we had a 4 hour bus journey through the rain forest/Andes foothills to a small town called Gualaquiza.  We had decided to stay here one night rather than continuing straight on to Cuenca - we have generally been very lucky and found the buses take more or less the intended time, but you never know!  Gualaquiza was described as the nicest small town on the road from Macas to Zamora thru the rain forest, but we couldn't find much going for it!  Obviously tourists are once again a rarity, so not many places to stay/eat.  We were lucky enough to find an ok place to eat - other restaurants we saw were closed - there is never a shortage of 'food' available, but this is no thailand and eating on the street corners does NOT appeal.  We had reserved a room suggested in the guide book, but other than being clean and ridiculously cheap ($7 pp/pn, including own bathroom (tho cold water!)), it was horrendous.  Just about every noise, from the busy cobbled street outside our window, to the squeaking floorboards; to the chatting neighbours; doors banging etc - so not our best night!

19/3 - relieved (?!!) to be on our way back to Cuenca and civilisation!  We had a 6 hour bone-rattling trip back into the Andes and to Cuenca.    The scenery was more beautiful than ever - no photos though as our window was very dirty and not possible to open!  The 2.5hr plus journey uphill from Gualaquiza to dizzying heights was on a narrow/muddy road - the views were occasionally a little too close for comfort!   As we came down to a lower altitude (though Cuenca is itself at 2500+m) we saw we were on a tarmac'd road and were rather glad we had done the journey in this particular direction and not the other way - I wouldn't have fancied the slide on the narrow road back down to Gualaquiza!!!  Very few indigenous people visible in these areas, just an odd one.  Some very 'shanty' type housing/small villages en-route with chickens taking precedence everywhere.  Once we approached a town called Sigsig, we were amazed at how prosperous the housing was - all the way more or less from here to Cuenca.   Great route, very tiring, but my suggestion so have to keep quiet!   We made up for it by going for a lovely dinner at the Argentinian restaurant we went to with our American friend a week or so agao - Rob wanted to try the chicken dish he had once again and it was excellent.  Just wish I had known my limits though and NOT gone for the fascinating desert that was on display - even the long walk back to the hostel wasn't enough to ease the strain!!

Photos from our stay in Copalinga (Zamora) etc

vilcabamba, Ecuador

12/3 - we took a taxi from our hotel to another hostel in Cuenca where we will stay when we return from our next adventure in a weeks time, leaving one heavy suitcase here.  We had around 4.5hrs on a very comfortable (with seats!) bus from Cuenca due south to Loja.  Expensive though - normally the fares even out at about $1 per hour, this was $7.5 pp for 4.5 hours!  Not a lot of villages en-route, but one interesting one had again another dress code to other indigenous villages.  These people were relocated here by the Incas from Lake Titicaca in Bolivia.

Loja, where we originally intended to stay 2 nights, was grey and wet so we were very pleased to be moving further south (1 hour more - this time by a local bus that was quite a tight squeeze!) to Vilcabamba, on the way to the Peruvian border.  As we progressed south so the rain stopped and the sun shone more and more - and, important now, its lower still (less than 2000m)!

We stopped for a drink and snack before getting a taxi 2Km up the road to the hostel.  The location of this German run hostel, Izhcayluma, has to be one of the best ever.  Perched on a hill with incredible views; open-air restaurant looking over the mountains,  lovely garden and cabins/rooms laid around the grounds.  My immediate impression was to stay longer, but - as ever in this world - not everything is so golden as it seems!  

We have learnt to take 2 beds due to the very small doubles.  Rob sat on his and said 'soft, but ok' and I was playing with photos etc for quite some time.  When I sat on MY bed, it was like sitting on the floor - must be the hardest mattress I've ever come across.  Sleeping wasn't so comfy then!  The bathroom smelt (something, somewhere was blocked), the tap on the sink dripped only; and this am I found the showers were either cold or boiling, quite dangerous if you were mad enough to first stand under the cold water, not possible to regulate!   We asked if they could change the matrass (thinking for one night we could live with the rest) but they insisted on changing the room.   We now have a slightly bigger room, better bathroom for use, one nice softish (MINE!) - though we normally like firm - mattress, and one HARD double (guess whos'!).  Restaurant offers to wide a menu probably and the food isn't really so great.  Lots more people here - the youngsters come for the trekking/horseriding possibilities here around and some come for relaxation.  Trouble is they also like to sit up talking into the middle of the night.  So, great place but our worst stayover probably.

Apparently in 1955, Readers Digest published a report saying people living in Vilcabamba enjoyed a higher than average life expectancy and instances of cardiovascular health problems were scarce.  Now there are a lot of Americans particularly living in the area!   It is a very pleasant, small, town with a wonderful climate for sure.

We wanted to do an 'easy' walk of 3-4 hours but were told that the start of the walk wasn't passable due to a landslide recently following a lot of rain.  One of the German owners sent us on another easy trail - we got a bit lost not so far from the hostel but picked up the trail further on.  We then seemed to be going forever uphill without finding where we should be turning off to cross a river and make a circuitous route back to the village.  After about 4 hours in a very strong sun, we got a taxi ride (they are everywhere, even in the middle of nowhere!) back to the village and had a nice Mexican lunch for a change.  When we wanted to get a taxi from the village back to the hostel we were told the taxi's couldn't get thru due to the road works but they would take us as far as they could - we were NOT enjoying the thought of the last uphill struggle but in fact the taxi did make it through!  Phew!  After a cold drink I retired to my hammock (very common here) to 'read'!

We had an email from our 'man in Quito' warning of road closures due to landslides for our trip tomorrow evening 13/3, but luckily am 14/3 all seems back to normal.

Photos from trip to Vilcabamba and here around.

Cuenca, Ecuador

We had to change our Friday plans of going to Ingapirca (inca ruins) as I got sick Thursday night (a mixture of a bad ice-cream (only thing we can think of) and the altitude (which I seem to suffer from once around 3000m or more and Guamote was only just over 3000m, Rob is ok for altitude it even seems to help his ears!)).  I had slept very badly Wednesday evening due to the altitude and again Thursday so I was a wreck come Friday.  No more 3000+, except via bus over the mountains, for me.

Rob went to the chemist in Guamote (remember this was like a very small wild west town with 90+% indigenous people) for some more immodium.  He got a packet, Janssens, of 20 for $1!  The lady said most people buy one or two....

We could have stayed where we were, but it was so cold and not what I needed.  We were arrange to shuffle our hotel arrangements and came to Cuenca a day early.  Our hotel here is 4* (for all those who think we are always slumming it, we do manage the odd luxury!) and very welcome (and warm) under the conditions.  The 4.5 hour bus trip was less fun but we made it.  It was the first time we had a problem on a bus - the bus came immediately we were dropped off (by car, no camionetta this time!) and the guy threw the cases in the boot and said a price, so on we got.  It moved off, as they do, immediately and we then found there were no seats!  I told the guy there was no way I could stand and he found someone to give up their seat (we think he took this young lady up front with him!) and Rob had to stand for 45 mins.  Once we both were settled in seats the bus was, as ever, very comfortable.

Saturday was better but I was incredibly weak so we took a tour bus for a change around and beyond the city.  Taking such a bus is like, once again, taking ones life in ones hands - the overhead cables (with the 'peligro' (danger) signs alongside) are extremely low in places, as was one bridge - if you had not been looking it would not have been a funny ending!  Whereas we have missed somethings/places en-route due to not being able to get somewhere on the right day - we managed to get THE day when Cuenca had a big demonstration (there are demonstrations going on around the country between 8 and 22 or so of March).  We were a little anxious things might run out of hand as we saw hundreds of people marching along and had heard there were pro-government one end of the city and anti-government the other and they were marching towards each other, but we didn't see much sign of the people again nor heard of any problems.  They started in the south of the country and are walking, city by city (or maybe town by town!) to Quito.

Cuenca is a lovely town, as we had heard, with a beautiful main square and some wonderful churches and colonial buildings.  After only a few minutes in the town we met an American lady we had originally met in Otovalo (in the north) many weeks ago.  We knew she was living here but didn't expect to see her.  We went out for dinner with her in the evening - a great Argentinian restaurant - she and Rob had a superb meal and bottle of wine, I managed on a small meal and this I am sure helped to get over the problems as today I was back up and running (Rob was groaning of course then!).

We went for a long walk around town this am - mainly because we were looking for a small panama hat museum and went the wrong way!  Not a lot to see in the museum as it is normally a working area but being Sunday....  We then found another great restaurant for lunch.  I had prawn ceviche - prawns are excellent here, anywhere in Ecuador so far we have seen and cheap.  I must have had around 30, quite large, prawns in my $6 dish - and this was no cheap restaurant, it was recommended in our guidebook and right next to the main church!  No, I didn't finish them all - most meals here are suitable for 2 people.  A lot of Americans, in particular, seem to come and live in Ecuador (wonder why - cheap!?!), so we have seen more foreigners here than we have in a couple of weeks.

We were going about 4 hours south to a town called Loja tomorrow for 2 nights, but have been recommended to go another 40mins further south to Vilcabamba, near the Peruvian border.  As we had picked up info on a hostel here some while ago, we thought it was meant to be so changed the plans once again.   Then back to the jungle on Wednesday.

Here are the photos of Cuenca.

Guamote, Ecuador

We left Banos Wednesday for Guamote, south west of Banos on the road to Cuenca.  Our intended bus wasn't running so we changed our minds and headed off slightly north/west to Umbato first and then south to Guamote, all in all 2 buses and 3 hours. 

The bus didn't go into the village so we had to find our way to our lodgings.  The taxi guy said $2 but we were sure it wasn't far so started to walk (i.e. shouldn't have been more than $1, we are learning!).  When we asked a lady she said not far, but seriously uphill and very rough cobbled (large cobbles!) road so suggested we get the nearby camionetta. 

This time we weren't so lucky (we also went inside one last week on the way to Salinas) as it was almost full and we had to get into the back with a bunch of school kids!!  They of course thought this all highly amusing - it wasn't the easiest vehicle to get into, believe me, but they are always helpful with our cases etc!!  It was definitely a steep, very bumpy road (not made for cases on wheels!!) but a short distance.

The place we are staying in is a Belgian run project to help the local community (including surrounding mountain villages) by running a kindergarden, teaching English, computers, cookery, sewing, etc.  It is currently being run by a young (everyone is young to us) Belgian girl with dreadlocks that can compete any day with Bens!

The town is fascinating - almost like an old wild west town, horrendous cobbles everywhere, train that runs through the extreme centre of town (though currently closed for rebuilding the line between Riobamba and Alausi further south) and most people are indigenous.  We are definitely the oddities here - the only other foreigners we have seen, even at the market Thursday, were the 4 or 5 others who were staying in the hostel.

The weekly market, on a Thursday, is incredible.  We both agreed this was probably the most interesting, authentic market we have ever seen anywhere.  Cows, horses, donkeys, 1 lama, sheep, pigs all brought into town to sell at the market, or people came to buy them.  There was a large area on one side of town for the cow/horse/donkey market; another end of town was the pig/sheep market; another area for chickens, guinea pigs etc and in between (streets upon streets) clothes, hats, shoes, fruit, vegetables, meat and fish.  The animals arrived mainly by foot or in pick-ups, but also on top and inside buses!  Everywhere you looked their were ponchos, colourful clothing and animals being dragged along and the sounds were hectic.  After some 4 hours or more of wandering around we were both exhausted - it became also incredibly sunny and hot today too (thank heaven, would not have enjoyed this in the rain!).

I think the pictures capture a small image of our experiences yesterday and today.              

Banos, Ecuador

We spent a very quiet weekend in Banos recovering from our 2 day visit to Salinas (it WAS necessary).  Our hostel is a wonderful spot for relaxing in and definitely must be amongst the quietest in Banos, plus of course the restaurant is probably the best in town.

Sunday was quite amazing in town - hundreds of people (Ecuadorians) had flocked here for the church and ambiance.  Guys with stuffed ponies waiting to take your child's picture; numerous sweet delights for sale and great ambiance.  Whoever thought the church was dead has to come to Ecuador, the belief is amazing.

Monday, despite the considerable mist and light rain, we took our planned bus to Puyo - some 60Km east of here and one of the main entry points to the jungle.  The rain in Puyo was far more serious than here!  Drab town, as many, but we found out way out of town to a restaurant recommended in the guide book, El Jardin, and it was superb.  Fantastic location by the river and great food.  we succumbed to a taxi to get us back to the distant bus station and returned to blue skies and sunshine in Banos!  When leaving Puyo, we were the first on the bus and the driver promptly put an English-speaking video on for us!  The scenery between Banos and Puyo is wonderful.

Today the weather was brighter and we revisited some spots in town including the basilica and Banos museum.  There is an amazing room in the museum full of items left by individuals for the holy Agua Santa, Banos's religious icon who has supposedly saved the town and its citizens from many disasters.  This includes wedding/christening/communion clothing; wedding bouquets; school diplomas; models of trucks so the drivers will be safe; everything you can think of really.  The basilica itself is full of paintings of such disasters/rescues. 

We also took a really local (as opposed we now realise to the higher class longer distance buses we have been using) back towards Puyo, 20Km, stopping at Rio Verde to visit the 'top' (they say) waterfall in Ecuador.  1Km seriously downhill, not the easiest (tho well maintained!) path - and then back up.  We stopped at the first major viewpoint as the 200m further stretch you could do was under seriously low overhanging rocks!  It was great to retire to our superb restaurant on our return!

Tomorrow we are going west and then south to Guamote.  This will be our first adventure on the buses with our suitcases.....

Here is the link to our Banos photos.

Banos, Ecuador

Our 2-day trip to Salinas was a great adventure, but we under-estimated the cold (3550m) and the fact I seem to suffer from hyper-ventilation at high altitudes, though no headaches or sickness, so could not sleep.

Thursday we checked out of our hostel (Posada del Arte) and dropped our suitcases at the new hostel (Marianes) and then headed off to the bus station.   No problem getting a bus in Banos as they shout out the places the next departing bus will head for (MANY different bus companies too, so a certain competitive spirit in place).  The first leg of the journey to Ambato was just under one hour, a road we now know quite well.

We had to cross the very busy main road to get our next bus to Guaranda.  We had about a 15min wait and again each bus that arrived announced its destinations quite clearly.  The price of the buses is approximately $1 per hour.  It took about 1hr 45m to get to Guaranda, rather bumpy as we ended up at the back of the bus. 

We had lunch in Guaranda - great little restaurant (La Estancia) which had a distinct western/cowboy theme.  Guaranda is again a sprawling town, but not too large and the centre is quite nice.  The people here are already different once again - they wear flatter hats, some very colourful ponchos around too (my favourite fuchsia colour is very ‘in').  I even think the people are smaller here!

Getting from Guaranda to Salinas took some investigation - our guide book said their were occasional buses but everyone said there were only camionetas (pick-up trucks) so we joined a local to wait for the next one.  As you can imagine they pack as many in as possible - we were lucky to get inside the vehicle (with someone else at the back, tight sqeeze!) and the passenger in the front managed to get someone else on his single seat too.  There seemed to be a never ending number of people, including kids on the way home from school, who got in the open back.  The truck stops on request to load/unload.  We had a maniac of a young lad driving, it struck me that the more signs for slow down/danger meant to him ‘speed up'.  We arrived in once piece though and never saw anyone fall out of the back.

Salinas is really lovely - a beautiful setting in rolling mountains.  It is a bit special, hence the reason for going there, in that an Italian missionary in the 70s started to show them how they could be more productive and self sufficient (before then they lived in mud huts and sold their wares for a pittance to middle men).  A Swiss guy then appeared and showed them how to handle their effusive milk supplies to better means (i.e. cheese production).  They now have a number of cooperatives in the village (+/- 1200 people) for producing cheese, soya, chocolate/turins, woolen items, footballs (!), etc.  We made a tour with a young local lad and Rob had maybe expected to see more production in process, but you have to admire what they have achieved.  The whole atmosphere in the village is of good organization.

We stayed in a a small cooperative hostel ‘El Refugio' on the edge of the village, fine and cheap but it really was freezing cold once the sun went down.  Luckily they have a fire in the lounge area.  A young Swiss couple were staying also so it was nice to sit and chat with them last night (once the electicity got stabilised, it fell out 3 or 4 times!).  We asked if we could get something simple to eat (we hadn't reserved dinner) and that was no problem, only something got lost in translation as we ended up with 4 dry rolls!  In terms of drink - not much on offer but Rob fancied a rum (to warm us up) and that was no problem, you just purchased the bottle and when we asked for a coke, they called someone to bring a bottle!!  For every problem there is a solution.

We took a camionetta back to Guaranda Friday, thankfully driven by an older and more sensible guy!  We got off before the town as we had seen a sign to Riobamba at one junction and the guy said we could get out there and wait for the bus.  We only had to wait about 15 mins - along with 3 other indigenous women (one very young with a 15month old baby on her back (I asked her!).  The child started to cry at one point so she proceeded to breast feed it!). 

The road from here to Riobamba was then new for us, as was the route from Riobamba back to Banos (all in the planning).  Riobamba was a messy sprawling town and we had to get a taxi from one bus station to the other one.  The road from Riobamba to Banos was mainly unpaved, across the mountains and very rough - once again in the back as it was packed!!!

I have to say we were exhausted by the time we got back to Marianes yesterday late afternoon!  Great scenery, interesting and friendly people and worth the visit.

Photos from the trip to Salinas 

Banos, Ecuador

Rob's cough and blocked nose are back, so quiet day here today.

We went into town so I could have my hair cut.  Our hotel owner had recommended a place - I was very pleased with the cut, wash and dry and when she said $5 I literally nearly fell from the chair. 

While Rob had a sleep this pm, I did some planning and found a route we should be trying - involves a lot of buses and time but little effort otherwise.  So, all being well tomorrow morning we are checking out of here, dropping our suitcases off at a French restaurant/hostel down the road and then getting one of 3 buses (4 hours of travel) tomorrow to Salinas.  All will be revealed on our return.

Our Philippino friend from Quito told us about the French restaurant and when we went to check it out today we heard they have a superb small hostel in the back, very quiet, and half the price that we pay now and even nearer to town, so it was an easy decision to check out here, leave our cases their while we go to Salinas - where we will stay one night - and then return their for 4-5 nights.  We have things we still want to do from Banos and as a lot of travelling is involved, will take 1-2 days inbetween for resting up and relaxing in this lovely climate here.

I visited the local thermal baths this evening, quite an experience!  Widely used by locals and foreigners (tho few their today).  The warm baths are heated by the volcano (if I understand rightly, from underneath....) and the cold showers/small dipping pools are straight from the waterfall next to the baths.   Great community spirit but the 2nd hot pool was 50+ degrees Centigrade, a little hot!

Hopefully adventure in the next 2 days, then an upate!

Banos, Ecuador

Rob was feeling well enough today, so off we went after a leisurely breakfast!  At the bus station, the first bus we saw going in our direction asked $1 each so we declined and the next one asked 80 cents so we went for that (had no real idea but I knew we could have expected to pay $1 from Umbato to Banos and that is around 45Km, we were going 30Km approx now!  Mind you by the end of the day and several buses further, we decided the different bus companies (and there are many...) ask different prices, but they appear to be fair in what they ask, they don't seem to ask tourists to pay more).  Its all good for our Spanish anyhow. 

Great entertainment on the morning buses - whilst the bus was in the station we had a couple of people selling things, as in Otavalo weeks ago, and then during the first 45min journey we had 2 different speakers/sellers.  One we decided was to do with religion, selling CDs or DVDs so far we could see, and the other, which was hilarious to us, was concerning the welfare of your teeth!  The guy was selling products to care for your teeth and gums and had a book of horrendous photos of decaying teeth which he showed during his speech (he was at the front of the bus ‘entertaining' all!).  All this for 80 cents each!

We went first to Salasaca which I mentioned yesterday - the people were originally from Bolivia and dress in black ponchos (the men who have the black ponchos seem to mainly have white linen trousers too).  A one street town, as many, and absolutely not big.  There was the tiniest of markets selling artisan products.  One thing we also found amazing here was the number of (mainly elderly) women who were standing/walking/chatting around spinning wool as they went!  Even on the bus we saw one or two women sitting and spinning.

We then took another bus 6Km east of Salasaca to a town called Patate (bus was called the Patate Express - Rob had to take a photo for our Belgian friends of course!).  Also a very small but pleasant town.  It was school turn out time and once again we were fascinated by the number of beautifully dressed kids in various different school uniforms, all impeccably dressed.  The kids are all very polite also, if they catch your eye they always say good morning/afternoon, as do many people who pass you by in this area.

From Patate we had to get a bus to Pelileo, the ‘jeans' town, and change to another bus to return to Banos.

I am putting, as end of the month, the photos into GlobeNotes directly once again - see if compression now works.

We spent an hour back at the hotel and then went for dinner just down the road - great little restaurant and good food, just cold again very quickly which was a shame.  We were the only people there and all ways freshly done but the cold plates must have been sitting around a few minutes before they made their way to us.  The owner came to talk to us, Ecuadorian but he has lived in the States for some years.  He told us the restaurant was only 4 months old and asked if we had any comments so I mentioned about warm plates and he was very pleased we told him, though I am sure if we return another day they will still be cold!!

A full but great day and Rob survived quite well!  For those who prefer the Picasa link to photos, click here.

Banos, Ecuador

There is ot much going on in Latacunga so decided to head on down to Banos.  Rob is developing quite a nasty cold and luckily it is much warmer here in Banos and today, at least, was generally beautiful weather.  We will stay here a few days and make some day trips by local bus if he is up to it.

Banos is also only at 1820m, which is more pleasant for those of us living at +/- 0m!  It lies in a beautiful valley, overshadowed by the volcano Tungurahua, also known as "The Black Giant,"  which is the largest (not the highest, thats down the road!) volcano in Ecuador yet the most easily climbed, since Baños is already set on its hillside. It is an active volcano and apparently currently, not usually, slightly active.  As you approach Banos there are many signs for escape routes and apparently (forgot to check) pedestrian signs on the pavements in town to indicate where to go to in times of problems.  The road south from Quito, down the Andes, is quite rightly called the Avenue of Volcanoes - most of which we don't see due to the clouds of course.

I would have liked to come here, 2 steps, by bus but we have some very heavy luggage (2 large cases plus our 2 small backpacks etc) and with Rob not feeling well we opted for a taxi.  You cannot complain about taxi prices here - $50 for 1hr 45m (nearly 100Km) and of course door to door.

We passed some interesting villages en-route - never much to look at quite honestly, but one was dedicated to fruity ice-creams and it really was one 'heladeria' after the other, but too early for us; one was dedicated to the making of jeans (apparently not famous quality but reasonable and very cheap) and every shop along the road was selling indeed only jeans!  One other village was interesting as here (only) many men wear different clothing - white wide trousers and black ponchos, plus hats - I hope we can go back here by bus to have a look around a bit more.  Nowhere else have we seen this.

Banos is a very comfortable, if touristic town, with many small hotels/hostels, good (seemingly) restaurants and lots of activities like going to the local thermal (thanks to the volcano!!) warm baths (one next door to our hostel); mountain biking; hiking (hilly!!); trips into the jungle etc.  We were a bit afraid of the touristic touch but as its so quiet everywhere its fine and really is in a beautiful setting.  It is a very comfortable place and we definitely feel much safer than in other cities - very quiet police presence.

Cotopaxi, Ecuador

Sorry, this is long - but there is a story to tell!!

How does the song go, ‘oh what a day'???

Our Quito marvel, Dante, picked us up at 9am from our Cotopaxi hotel - the weather was beautiful.  He had found a slightly better road than the one we used yesterday, so got away without too many scrapes to the underside of the car!

We drove the short distance to the Cotopaxi national park - free entry, but one is forced to pick up a local native guide (around $25 for the car), else NO entry!!  Although Dante knows a lot, our experience with local guides has actually been very positive.  We drove about 10Km to the museo Mariscal Sucre where the guide explained everything about the area.  I was a bit nervous about the altitude as we were going to the laguna Limpiopungo which is 3830m and I was still finding myself breathless in Quito and where we stayed last night, which were both around 2800m, so I had a cup of coca tea and of course it can be phsychological, but I was fine on the (fairly flat) walk (I packed my leaves in a tissue and took them with me in case needed too!)

As we set off for our hours walk around the lake, which is a really beautiful spot, the skies looked very grey but both Dante and the guide thought it would not rain, so - no rain gear with us.  Of course, after some 20mins it didn't rain (initially), but we had hailstones!!  Dante returned to the car for the rain gear, thank heaven as it hailed/rained consistently the whole way round. 

There are wild horses and wild cows in the area, both of which we saw, and reportedly some 18 condors, which we of course did not see - nor the volcano itself.  We were between Cotopaxi and another volcano, we vaguely saw the latter.  Too many clouds and, oh yes, some pretty hefty thunder during the last 15 minutes!!  Really a shame as it was a great spot, some beautiful flowers and plants - tho no trees as such due to being so high.

We went on to Latacunga, a little further south, for a quick lunch and visit to a chemist.  Rob has a nasty cough back again (he had one that lingered for a long time when we arrived in Ecuador) and as we were planning a couple of nights in a very remote spot, now was the time!

We then drove west of Latacunga, towards Zumbahua (around 64Km) - stunning scenery (if still no volcano), wonderful people dotting the towns and countryside (ponchos being the norm) but hairy roads here and there.  Some tarmac roads, but a lot of work is going on to improve the road surfaces so much was untarmac'd, with many potholes etc.  Cows, lamas, pigs, sheep and hundreds of dogs everywhere.  In one small area, around 3900m, the local people (and most people between Latacunga and where we were aiming for are indigenous) live in literally mud huts.  This is really due to the height, as there are no trees around to make better housing in the old days.  Otherwise people are living in extremely poor quality housing and how they ever get their clothes dry, heaven only knows!!

At Zumbahua, we turned north towards Lake Quilotoa (about 21Km) ‘a breathtaking gklass-green lake' - except today of course!  Very heavy mist had been building up as we approached the area and we agreed their was no point in going for the view, perhaps on the way back in a couple of days time.

We then drove on towards Chugchilan (another 21Km) but after just 1Km, we came to a halt - we were confronted by a serious mud bath and it was quite obvious, despite Dantes optimistic view, that we were never going to get thru this with his standard car.  We saw one lorry coming in the other direction and that had enough problems.  We tried to call the hostal we were going to stay in (Mama Hilde - it sounded so nice) to see if they had a 4-wheel drive to come and collect us, but - guess what - no mobile reception.  Surprisingly enough we went a bit further and did have reception, but the number we had didn't work!  Dante called his wife in Quito and she called the hostal.  Despite being so near and it being a very reasonable price for accommodation and food, they wanted $25 (each way) to come and collect us so we said we would leave it.  Despite (yet again) the Ecuadorian optimism for Chugchilan being a much better climate, we were inclined to no longer believe it - it seems everywhere on the Sierra is good in the morning and wet in the pm!!

Zumbahua is an awfully drab, quite horrible looking small town, so we did not want to stay there and decided it was best to cut our losses and return to Latacunga, part company with Dante (so he could return to Quito) and we would make our way on tomorrow further south.  On our return to Latacunga, despite the awful mists and rain we had on the way back, what did we see looming in front of us but the magical Cotopaxi volcano!

It was dark by the time we got back, around 18.40, but we found a simple hotel that we believe (!!) is not far from the old colonial part of town.  We have a matrimonial room - with one of the fantastically small double beds that Ecuador seems to be so good in, tv and lounge area, plus a great bathroom for the excellent price (including breakfast!) of $36 (around 26 euros...).

Our Philippino lady that we met in Quito has been south of here and is now in Cuenca, and it would appear the theme of ok mornings and very wet afternoons is the norm throughout the Sierra (Andes).  Our timing was perfect for the Galapagos and jungle, but.....seemingly not for everywhere else!!

Some photos from today.

Cotopaxi, Ecuador

 Friday - luxury, up around 8!!  It was beautiful weather so we had a leisurely breakfast (not sure if I have mentioned it before, but Rob particularly is addicted now to the fresh fruit juices we get here - particularly pineapple, whereas I love the passion fruit juice).

Saw our first armadillos - 2 youngsters who were out for a dig around for insects (presumably), they dig around the roots of all the plants like squirrels do.  Such strange looking animals.  I saw a large armadillo briefly when we were out walking but he was shy and quickly gone!

We made a 3-4 hour walk around the lodge area and up the nearby hill which we had tackled in the rain the other day but which needed some attention for fallen trees etc.  Now it was much dryer and the trees had mainly been taken care of so much more pleasant!  Beautiful views over the forest along the way, not many birds spotted though as it was not early/late enough.  Our guide and manager of the lodge saw monkeys while they were out.

Sat 25/2 - Dante, our Hostel Ecuador manager who brought us to Mindo, came to collect us, bringing one suitcase we had left behind and some laundry - what a service!!  We visited a museum in a small village called Tulipe, which is dedicated to the Yumbos culture (between 900 and 1600, so pre, during and after the Incas).  The Yumbos were traders bringing goods between the coast and the highlands.  They created serious trenches along the tracks they constantly followed and were mainly living in the Tulipe area (near Mindo, slightly north west of Quito).  They had created some interesting ‘piscinas' (pools!) in this area which were used for rituals of cleansing and as ‘celestial mirrors' reflecting the sun, moon and stars.  Like the Incas and Mayas, their knowledge of  the sun/moon/stars; geometry and maths was amazing for their time.  They left the area after a serious volcanic eruption in the area and dispersed in various directions which has been traced via language similarities in places like the Orient (jungle).

We then drove back to Quito and on south towards Cotopaxi park, arriving only around 6pm. The road to our hotel from the main road (around 2Km) was extremely difficult for a regular car.  Dante will have to buy a 4-wheel drive if he wants to continue driving people around!!  Once again very glad we are not driving ourselves, hate to think how many pieces you would be giving the car back in!!

Our hotel is like an old farmhouse, with fireplaces in every room - yep, necessary!!  All very cosy.

See here for photos from Mindo.

Mindo Cloud Forest, Ecuador

We left Quito on Monday for a beautiful 2.5hr drive to the Mindo Cloud Forest.  The small town of Mindo was packed with people on the way through due to it still being Carnival weekend - great abundance of foam sprays around!!

We are staying in a lodge called Mindo Garden and it is really beautiful, just 3 wooden houses each with 3 bedrooms, and 2 main buildings for relaxation/meals.  Our house is right next to the river so we have exchanged the sounds of the Quito traffic for a very very fast flowing river (could almost be the local motorway, but no tooting horns or screeching of brakes!!).  Very good food here once again and the humming birds (colibris) are amazing.

We took a guide for 2 days - they see so much more than we do, even Rob.  It does mean up and out by 6.30 (and for good behaviour yesterday, out by 04.45...) for early morning bird watching. We were lucky enough to see a male and female Cock of the Rock (Ecuadors most beautiful bird) on Tuesday and again yesterday morning (which is why we got up so early).-  Lots of tucans around and some special turkeys, plus of course many colourful small birds. 

Monday and Tuesday were beutiful weather until some rain later in the day, yesterday was awful - rain all day and quite cold.  Ponchos a necessity, plus wellington boots where possible!!  Today has been lovely once again so hopefully tomorrow too - we will leave here on Saturday and head off towards Cotopaxi volcano. 

No photos until we have better internet access - no wifi here, just the occasional use of a PC in reception!

Amazon, Ecuador

We have stayed in a hostal in a very good, if very noisy, location in the old town of Quito.  Compensation is that we have a lounge/kitchen (only fridge/sink and empty cupboards, but still!!)/bathroom/2 bedrooms and breakfast for a very reasonable price.  We have found some good places to eat here in town though could say we are getting tired of chicken and the sight of fatty soups!

We have walked and walked around the old town enjoying the ambiance, especially today as there was no traffic around this am and hundreds of families out and about, often in their Sunday best, enjoying the sunshine (until later today) and various small music/entertainment features around and about.

We took the cable car up the nearby volcano for a good view of the city on Friday, but we hit the clouds and saw nothing of course!  4100m though and we survived this great height ok (Quito is around 2600m).  We visited the basilique and today the presidential palace which is just up the road.  I had wanted to visit the central museum and the old house of the first president of Ecuador, but both were closed today so took in a couple more churches - some of which are spectacular inside.

Beyond the Grand Plaza where the palace and cathedral are, the most popular area of old town Quito is Ronde - a street of old houses/cafes/restaurants that could easily make you believe you were in Spain - and this is right opposite our hostal.

We also made a trip to the equator yesterday - Ecuadors more significant memorial to this special location.  We had a guided tour around a museum there for an hour with an excellent guide.  She gave an introduction to some of the Ecuadorian indigenous (tribes) people from the Amazon area - particularly interesting was the group who used to do the shrunken heads (was pleased to hear this wasn't necessarily centred on enemies, but on the death of dignitaries in the community they would shrink the head for a memorial!).  Another interesting point she told us about was the 'umbrella' fish which can be found in some Amazonian rivers - if you pee in the water while swimming, they are attracted by this and swim into the sexual organs, where they continue to grow and have barbs so cannot be simply pulled out!  Now even more glad I didn't go swimming with the caimans and piranhas in the NAPO lake - also explained why one tribe. who are known to go around naked, tie their penises up around their lower bellies to prevent this happening!  She didn't explain what the women do...  The jungle is an amazing place and we obviously didn't see/hear the half of it.  The guide also did some interesting tests with us on the equator line and off it, to show how water, strength, walking on a straight line etc are all affected.  Very interesting visit.

We visited a volcanic crater (of which there are many here in Ecuador if you haven't realised already and we haven't toured thru the 'avenue of volcanoes' yet) which is not a lake as we expected, but inhabited by some 40 families.

Rob fell sick yesterday afternoon, we are still not sure what is wrong - he first thought a touch of flu, then maybe gout and today he initially felt better but while visiting the palace became dizzy and unwell so has spent the day resting in the room at the hostal.  We met a wonderful lady from the Philippines yesterday (now living in the US) on our visit to the equator, she is staying at the hostal also, so once Rob was medicated and resting, she and I went out and visited some more places yesterday and again today.  We were joined by a young couple from Hong Kong last night so we went to investigate carnival in Quito - we had heard that there isn't much going on here (a small concert the other day which we feared might go until the early hours as it was near the hostal, ended around 10pm!) - this basically comes down to people spraying water around/over people and, more popular as of yesterday evening, people spraying a type of play/shaving foam over everyone!  Generally all done in great spirit, but we witnessed one or two people who had just had enough and started to get angry - explains maybe why one town has apparently banned this type of activity.  From 3 to 70 they seem to enjoy doing this!!

Quito old town appears to have just about one policeman to every citizen (exageration of course, but there are hundreds).  Apparently the old town was not a safe place in the past and they are constantly striving to improve safety and widen the net which is safe for tourists to visit.  We were warned not to venture more than 100m to our right from the hostal, and basically the area considered safe is reasonably small still.  When Rob and I were investigating the Ronde street the other day we came to 5 officers 'blocking' the road, they didn't want us to go further.  The Philippino lady was heading up a nearby street yesterday to visit a church and they called her back and told her to go another way - so they have work to do to make this a safer town.  Yesterday, on the way to the equator, we saw the army had pulled over a bus and emptied everyone out - apparently looking for arms as people come from the surrounding villages into town just for the purpose of robbing people.  We visited the new town briefly for lunch yesterday (3 of us) and all agreed we didn't feel so safe their - lots of groups of young lads lurking around.  My guide book, the latest version but still just 2 years oldl had mentioned most people stay in the new town as its safer than the old...

Couple of other observations we have made since being in Ecuador - how few people smoke, I have only seen a handful since we have been here;  scrambled eggs is the stable breakfast ingedient; material/threads/sewing machine shops are everywhere; how elegant some of the women are - particularly those with the bowler hats, certainly compared to what assumes are their partners.

Other than some rain at lunchtime today (in the night) and just after we returned to the hostal late afternoon,  we have had good weather in Quito - warm sunshine and blue/cloudy skies.

Tomorrow we leave here for the Mindo cloud forest, east of Quito, to search for more elusive birds, butterflies and orchids (Ecuador has more varieties than any other country), for 4 nights.  Back to humidity, most likely a lot of rain this time, mud and early mornings!

Some photos from Quito old town and the equator/crater we visited.

Amazon, Ecuador

Up at 5 and away at 6am once again - this time for the hour journey back down the creek, 2 hour motor canoe to Coca and short fight back to Quito.  We saw some giant river otters en-route along the creek, a great troop of monkeys that seemed to need to cross from one side of the river to the other (high in the trees), and then came across a recently fallen tree that required some serious hacking with the machete before we could pass.   We know this cannot have happened more than 15-20 minutes before we were there as the canoe with all the luggage left just before us and had no problem.

We are spending one night back in Tumbaco, near Quito, and then moving into Quito old town for 4 nights as of tomorrow.  It is carnival weekend - not entirely sure how much action their will be (not Rio!) but hopefully something.

For the last photos from yesterday and this morning, see this link!

Amazon, Ecuador

Today we had to be up earlier and OUT at 6am - reason being we were paddling/walking to the observation tower (120m - above all the trees....) in the jungle.  Great views - saw a few tucans, a sloth bear (luiaard in vlaams!) at a distance but amazing, a great group of monkeys who were out getting their breakfast, 2 lizards (so insignificant after the Galapagos, but still...), various interesting birds (maybe we expected more??), the deer we saw a few days ago was still in the same spot - very very well hidden in the bushes, obviously his/her favourite location, though it moved on today (maybe too many of us) and a wild boar.

It was the hottest day yet - clear blue skies and sunshine, and humid of course which does make it very tiring.  We only returned to the lodge around 12.20 for lunch and a long rest.  We were due to go out again at 4, but as it was so hot we went at 5 until 7.15 (to look for the kaaimans, fire flies and glo worms again). 

Amazon, Ecuador

Out for 6.30 again!  We had a 'quick' paddle downstream to the 'warehouse' (takes an hour without stops and going downstream!!).  Went on 10' more by motor canoe to a spot on the Napo river where hundreds of parrots come to lick the clay.  The parrots are eating seeds which carry poisonous toxins and they would die if they don't counter-balance the toxins with the clay.  For some reason the parrots at the first lick we went to come between 8 and 9; we went on to another lick further down river around 11 where macaws and (normally - not today, maybe due to a hawk or similar being in the area) lots of small parrots come for the same reason.  We saw 4 or 5 macaws - beautiful. 

We also visited a village run by the wives of the men working at the community centre/Lodge where we are staying.  They have formed a group to show the way things were, and often still are, run in the local villages.  Very interesting - a young girl showed us how they make the local chicha drink out of yucca, what kitchen utensils they use etc.  They also sang and danced to 2 songs for us.  There was a baby in a cradle (u can see in one of the pictures) the whole time - 6 months old.  Such a simple way of keeping the baby happy and quiet!!!

We had lunch at the warehouse and a rest afterwards - they have a 'room' full  of hammocks, wonderful after the extremely hot walk to the second clay lick, everyone was really tired.  The humidity is quite exhausting and it gets really very hot during the middle hours of the day.  We have been so lucky with the weather until now - one shower the other day that forced us to turn back from our visit to the piranha lake, plus one heavy shower early this am (plus sometimes at night).  It is the dry season here.  Also not bothered too much by mosquitos due to the acidity in the lake, and even on the jungle walks it has been fine.  NZ with the sand flies on some of our walks was a lot worse.

I have uploaded 13 pictures to the same Picasa folder today.

Amazon, Ecuador

Out at 6.30 and back at 12....canoed around early am but surprisingly little to see and hear for early morning.  Made a very interesting, if hilly, walk for a few hours, then back for lunch.

First day we got a rest in the afternoon - only to be woken up as an anaconda had been found in the grounds - young, +/- 1 year, but still well over a meter. 

Canoed around for 2.5 hrs looking for nightlife, kaaimans etc - saw some of the red howler monkeys (who make the tremendous howling wind sound) and several young kaaimans.

For the Amazon photos until now, please press see: for the  photos!

Amazon, Ecuador

Left the Lodge again at 7.40 to go across the other side of the lake.  We made a walk in the jungle for over 3 hours (very slow, muddy and often quite dark!).  We saw an amazing butterfly called the Owl Butterfly.  If you see it closed, it has like one eye on its side, but the guide picked it up (large) and opened it up - you then see why it is called the owl butterfly as it looks like an owl with 2 eyes and nose.  Then, the magic is, if it feels threatened it can go down low and open another way and it looks like a snake on its body!  The guide also picked up a cricket, which of course just looked like another wet leave on the ground.  We also saw a frog on a leaf which appeared to be another dead leaf on top of a healthy leaf!!  The walk was maybe a bit too long as it got incredibly hot and not easy walking.  We took the canoe a bit further down river and visited the community centre which was very interesting.  The Anangu people who live in this area tend to live in small groups (often only 1 house) along the Napo River.  The Lodge where we are staying is supporting them to get better education, health etc for its people.  We met quite a few members of the community who were returning from working nearby - all carrying machetes - they were getting together to drink the local Chichi drink (made from yucca, like a bitter yoghurt!), chat and have lunch together.  Nothing touristic about this place at all but great to see what they are doing to improve their lives.  We also had a talk with the local nurse. 

We had lunch in the ‘warehouse' and were then joined by 4 Canadians (from Quebec, so primarily French speaking but they do speak English also) who will be with us for the rest of our stay here (we have had a guide to ourselves yesterday and today).  Extremely hot ride back along the creek.  On arrival at the Lodge we were told about a large kaaiman nearby so went over to see that - must be about 4m long the guide reckoned according to the size (large!) of his head.

Finally had some time to rest - so had a great shower (now we have worked out how it works!) and I had a read/doze in a hammock.  Little concerned when one of the guides came over looking in the water under our house (which is up high) for anacondas - apparently they like to come out at a time like this and lay on the logs/swamp area.  Nice thought!

The Lodge accommodation is wonderful - 2m beds, very spacious (room for a 3^rd person in another large single which is in an open separate ‘room'), sitting area etc.  Great food and very friendly staff.

Amazon, Ecuador

up at 5.30 (wasn't happy with the wake-up call for 04.50!), breakfast at 6 (apparently a luxury to be this late...) and out 45' later.  We went back down the creek - seeing giant river otters briefly en-route; red howler monkeys (beautiful); another tamarind sort; several kingfishers, 1 night heron and 2 owls (had to marvel at how the guides see these animals!), macaws etc.

We then took the motorised canoe again further down river to Lake Panacocha (Piranha lake!) in Kichwa in search of rosy-pink fresh water dolphins, but unfortunately we didn't see any.  We had lunch at a lodge there and had to wait for a storm to clear before setting off again.  Bit of a race back (as much as one can race rowing 7Km upstream on the creek!) and it was dark when we got back.  Very nice, again interesting, but the canoes are not exactly comfortable and so ones bum gets sore after a while and it might have been nicer to have done this on another day rather than straight after the long journey of yesterday.

Amazon, Ecuador

Very early start again today (5.30) for our trip to the Amazon.  We flew (30 min) to Coca, then had a 2 hour motorised canoe ride to the Napo Lodge ‘warehouse', followed by a good couple of hours canoe (staff rowing...!) ride on the 7Km stretch of creek to the lake/Lodge, which we only reached after 4.30.  Along this last stretch we stopped many times to see various wildlife - 2 snakes (looked enormous, apparently not venomous); some woolly monkeys; golden mantle tamarins; 1 lizard and several lovely birds.  At one point we heard an incredible sound of howling wind which turned out to the Red Howler Monkeys - one dominant mail can make a tremendous sound, to frighten off others and let them know he was king of his area!  Extremely hot and humid, but not raining. The Lodge is in a beautiful setting, several small thatched cabins (total of 16).

Tumbaco near Quito, Ecuador

I would like to say we have had a lazy day digesting our Galapagos experience but as we have a very early departure (6.30) again tomorrow to head over to the Amazon, it has been a day of washing, lunch out with some shopping, catching up with 12 days of emails, creating the diary entries and photo sorting somewhat!!

Big problems adding enough photos into Global Notes - after compressing the photos in two different ways, I find I am using too much of the 50Mb allocated for the whole month of February.  in despair I have put the remaining photos into Picasa (some here in Global Notes). 

Please see this link for the rest of the photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/110991706415165589446/IntoPicasa?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXwkIOovcGBmwE#

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

 Day 9 - Genovesa Island.  We isited Darwin Bay in the morning and El Barranco in the afternoon.

After a photo session on the beach with all the sea lions (once again, they are everywhere but one could sit and watch them all day), we made a walk and there were an incredible amount of birds on this island.  Our first red footed boobies, including some babies.  Lots of Nazca boobies too - which are very attractive - they all seemed to be courting (mate for life) and were fascinating to watch.  Difficult walk in places but very interesting.  Easily, not for the first time, a days worth of watching could be had here.  We went snorkelling again from the beach but the seas were quite rough so it was not easy.  Apparently this is one of the areas one can see hammer head sharks but we never saw any here or elsewhere (personally I wasn't too worried!).

After lunch we went snorkelling in another spot from the dinghy - not the easiest in terms of access/reboarding but usually better snorkelling, though again here murky and very deep so not a lot to see.

We went on to El Barranco for a very difficult ‘dry' (supposed to be anyhow) landing.  Some ‘steps' exist here which they call Prince Philip steps as he (UK!) visited here back in 1965.  Unfortunately the water was again very choppy so the landing was difficult to say the least - one lady (almost 70!) fell backwards from the dinghy into the water but Rob and the guide managed to haul her back in.  A lot of birds once again and tho none of were looking forward to getting back down the steps and onto the dinghy, it was worth it.  The main reason for visiting here was to try and see the brown owls which are known to inhabit this island and we did, thankfully!  Again very very hot today.

Day 10 - a tiny island off Santa Cruz island called Plazas Sur.  This island is unique for hybrid iguanas though we didn't see any.  Marine iguanas have mated here with land iguanas, this has not been known on any of the other islands.  The hybrid iguanas cannot reproduce either.  La Plazas is in fact 2 tiny islands, we just visited the south island.  A wonderful carpet of ground cover cactus type plants (forgotten name already) - mostly red as a result of a long dry spell, but once there is more rain it will become greener.  Also cactus trees here.  Lots of land iguanas and a few marine iguanas that we saw.  Lots of sea lions too, but these were the somewhat aggressive ones so it was not possible to snorkel with them. 

We then sailed on for a couple of hours to Santa Fe island.  Beautiful snorkelling area, only about 3m deep and very clear water.  We were able to convince the guide to let us get into the water earlier than planned and snorkelled for 2 hours - many sea lions around but they would get too close for many photos!  Several rays in the water  and one turtle.  We saw a Galapagos scorpion (very small and harmless) on this island too.  We saw here the slightly larger (seemed to me anyhow!) Galapagos shark too, also harmless (means until now no problems!!). 

Made a lovely walk on the island and saw the unique Santa Fe land iguanas, different colour to those we've seen before.  We also saw 2 quite large marine iguanas on rocks somewhat far off which were quite red - apparently red is the favourite colour for attracting females in this part of the world!  Though, having said this, the 2 crab types are red and apparently this is because they want to give the impression to predators that they are dangerous (red = warning as we are used to!), but they are in fact harmless!!!  Very large tree catci's here with incredibly thick trunks.

Day 11 - San Cristobel island.   The briefing for today announced a ‘challenging' climb of some 100m for a ‘good view' but we decided, with a few others, not to go and were not disappointed when we heard what was seen!  We sailed on to Kucher Rock for some snorkelling.  This was an amazing venue for snorkelling - 2 very large rocks split in two and the best views are in the split, with LOTS of sharks (Galapagos mainly), turtles and fish.  The water was very deep so photos not easy.  Must say I had to close my eyes and ‘think of home' when I heard someone say ‘wow, so many sharks' just as I was about to leave the dinghy!!    3 of us went thru the gap (some 50+m) and then around one of the rocks once again to return to the gap as the views were so good - we met lots of turtles on our way around too but a little tough swimming as the current was a bit strong here and there.  

We sailed during lunch for I think the first time today and then went for a walk on lava stones (not always easy) to see sea lions, marine iguanas, blue footed boobies and yellow warblers (small very pretty birds).

We went snorkelling again in the afternoon in a great area - lots of Diamond rays surfing the sand not so far under us, interesting fish (balloon and porcupine) and sea lions swimming with us.

Day 12 - is it all really coming to an end, we are so at home now on our boat with these great walks and snorkelling!  We left the boat at 8 and visited a tortoise farm but this one wasn't nearly as interesting as the one on Santa Cruz on day 2.   Weather bad here - very cloudy and wet, but not cold (never had long sleeves on the whole cruise).  We went on to a site where a walk uphill for a view was proposed, but those of us travelling on decided it was far too muddy and wet so didn't go.  Some of the younger guests went but said it wasn't worth it and one couple who started out gave up!  We had time for a quick lunch back in the town before going to the airport to start our journey ‘home' here near Quito.   Effortless trip and we were picked up by our taxi lady at the airport and arrived home just after 7pm last night. 

Anyone loving nature, animals and wanting to visit a unique place on earth would love the Galapagos Islands.

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

 Day 4 - we are now in Urbina Bay, a little further north.   We had our first ‘wet' landing from the dinghy on a black sand beach.  Lots of sea turtle nests on the beach (these are serious dips in the beach, under which will be the eggs).  There was a Galapagos hawk on the bushes next to the beach which stayed in place while we got some photos.  We made a one hour walk and saw our first land iguanas - quite different, generally more colourful than their marine counterparts.  

We sailed on to Tagus cove for an hour's snorkelling after lunch which was great.  My first encounter with a white-tipped shark (I saw this coming and almost died on the spot though they are quite small - put my head up to tell others and there was no-one near me!).  Several turtles again, and penguins (who fly past you in the water), a sea lion swept by too and a ray went quite close to Rob.  Later in the afternoon we returned to the island to be met (as frequently during the trip) by several sea lions.  We went to the summit of a small volcano, but only about a 80m climb this time and much easier than the last one - once the guide had encouraged the large sea lion to move off the steps.   We saw our first mocking birds here also.

An American couple on board celebrated their 40^th wedding anniversary today so the crew decorated their cabin, gave them some wine and fruit and made a cake for all of us!  It was the birthday of another guest a couple of days ago so there was then also a cake made for everyone.

Day 5 - Fernandina island, Punta Espinoza (west of Isabella Island).  Hundreds of sea lions; thousands of marine iguanas; some pelicans; cormorants etc.  Many turtles in the sea also.  We made a lovely walk here.  There was a youngish sea lion with a cord tightly around its neck.  Our guide summoned  help from boat as he wanted to try and catch the sea lion (who was then out of the water) to cut the cord but after trapping it for a while in a channel of rocks, it managed to escape just as help arrived, very sad.  We all had the impression the cord wasn't going to break due to being too stretched so would end up killing the sea lion. 

After lunch we had an hours snorkelling again and it was the best yet - the (usual) turtles, sea lions, penguins etc.    We also made a 45min dinghy ride in the same area. 

We crossed the equator during the day so the captain (who turned out to be married to a Dutch lady!) offered a cocktail on the bridge so we could all record the GPS at the 000 setting!  He made a couple of turns so we all got to see it!!  The evening was finally a lot clearer than it had been on previous days. 

One of the couples travelling with us is celebrating their 50^th wedding anniversary in July but the crew found out this trip was their present to themselves, so once again cake!

Day 6 - Santiago island.  Wet landing on a black (lava dust) beach.  Lovely walk where we met the local fly catcher birds for the first time - they were fascinated by the large cameras and we have some great pictures of them sitting on top of the lenses.  Not at all shy!  We saw a young hawk on this island, lots of marine iguanas, sea lions and mocking birds.   We went snorkelling again - this time a few more sharks around but now we were following them for photos! 

We were able to go snorkelling again in the afternoon, having sailed on a bit further.  I saw my first ray underwater.  We had landed on a red sand beach this time.  We returned to the island later in the afternoon for another walk.

Day 7 - Santiago Island, south - Chinese Hat.  Visited the island - powder white sand - interesting plants and endemic tomato plants.  We only saw hawks here, sea lions and marine iguanas.  Beautiful sunny day with clear skies, just like the Caribbean!   Snorkelling this morning - 1 shark, octopus (unfortunately no good pics), marine iguanas feeding under water for the first time and lots of small, harmless, jellyfish. 

Lunch was upstairs today and with the weather, wonderful!

We sailed on to Bartolome Island.  We had a dinghy ride and climbed 114m to the top for a superb view, very hot though!  Lots and lots of frigate birds hitched a lift with us while we sailed today.  We sailed on later in the day to North Seymore island.  There was a large shark circling round the boat...

There was a farewell drink this evening for those leaving the boat the next day.

Day 8 - last day for everyone except ourselves plus our great guide unfortunately.  We were up at 5.30 today and out at 6 to visit North Seymore before everyone had to return to the airport.  We saw lots of frigate birds on this island - the males all seeming to have inflated their red gular (yep, had to look that up!) sacs to attract the females, a magnificent bird in this case.  Generally the frigates are known as the pirates of the seas as they cannot dive into water to get their own fish (no oil on their feathers) so attack other birds and steal their catch!!  There were a few land iguanas on this island and some blue footed boobies once more.  We also saw Galapagos doves, egrets and oyster pickers.  Beautiful, if somewhat stony, walk.  Breakfast at 7.15 and then we had a couple of lazy hours while the others were taken to the airport - magnificent weather.

Once the new guests were on board and we had had lunch, we went for a walk and saw 3 flamingos, swimming iguanas, crabs (which we have often seen but I forgot to mention - there are 2 types here in the Galapagos, both very colourful and attractive).  We saw lots of turtle nests once again.  Snorkelling was from the beach but not a lot to see as again very murky - just the time we had much longer for the snorkelling too!

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

The boat was beautiful - 8 double cabins; lovely dining/lounge area; upstairs bar/dining area which was half open; plus a small top deck for sunbathing.  The food was generally excellent and the crew very nice.  The boat was full the first week and we had one cabin free for the last 4 nights. 

Our guide for the first week was amazing - he used to be a teacher/headmaster of a school for 15 years.  He has been guiding in the Galapagos for some years now (presumably the pay/tips make it more interesting!).  An extremely intelligent guy, his general knowledge of Ecuador and the islands couldn't have been better (mind you none of us could have corrected his latin names for the animals etc had we wanted to!); his ability to organise everyone, stories and sense of humour made him the perfect guide.  We had another guide for the last few days who was also very knowledgeable but much younger and he lacked the organisation and communication skills, but he would also bend over backwards to help anyone.

This was not a trip for wimps!  We were on the go virtually the whole time!!  After our lunch on the first day we were taken back to the island for a 30min bus ride to an open ‘ranch' where tortoises gather, though they are not (we are told) fed or encouraged in any way.  It was great to wander around so soon surrounded by these magnificent animals - everywhere you looked tortoises were munching away.  The oldest one we saw is believed to be approx 170 years old.  There were also a lot of finches around and our guide for that day was able to call them towards him by making certain sounds. 

One of the real wonders of the Galapagos is how unafraid all the animals are, even the small birds and this was the same everywhere except for one island where the fishermen have caused problems to some sea lions due to their getting caught in the nets etc.  As a result of this, the sea lions here have changed their behaviour and can be a bit aggressive.

We also visited a lava tunnel the first day - not exactly exciting but one has to wonder at what nature can create.  We also had half an hour in Puerto Ayora to enjoy a cool beer (sorry Koen!) before returning to the boat.

Every day we were up latest 6.30 for breakfast at 7 and out at 8.  We returned every day to the boat for lunch and in time for a refresh before the 18.45 briefing and dinner at 7.  Needless to say 10pm was about the latest time anyone went to bed!!

The boat mostly sailed at night - starting anything between 9pm and 3-4 am, depending on the distance to be covered.  We did some short sailing during the day now and then and only had one meal whilst sailing during the whole trip.  The seas were generally quite calm and no-one suffered any sickness - God bless the catamarans!

On the 2^nd day we started our few days on Isabella Island (the largest of the islands).  We visited a tortoise breeding centre which was very interesting.  The tortoises are released once they are large enough, to enhance the numbers in the wild on this island.  We then went for a walk to the Wall of Tears (Prisoners in the 1940's/50's were made to build their own prison out of lava rocks and this wall has been left as a testament to their suffering (many died in the process)).   It was extremely hot, so we had sympathy for them.

We stopped off in the ‘town' on the way back and most of us drifted to the wonderful white sandy beach - to meet our first marine iguanas.  Amazing (a word I found we kept using on the islands - beats the US ‘awesome'!!).  We also saw several pelicans and lots of sea lions (all ‘seals' here are in fact sea lions as they have external ears).    After lunch on board, we returned to the island for a 45' minute ride in an open truck (and on the rough roads, this was a rough ride) into the hills to begin our 300+m climb to the summit of the volcano Sierra Negra.  After leaving the hot coastal port, the temperatures had dropped dramatically by the time we started our climb and the drizzle had set in.  I have to say that none of us enjoyed this walk/climb but it was early days so we were all in for doing whatever was going!  It was a difficult climb though and the rain increased as we gained height.  Needless to say by the time we reached the summit, we were all completely soaked and there was nothing to see - the 10Km diameter crater was full of mist, only!!  A real shame as it was no doubt beautiful in the right conditions (but why did we have the feeling the conditions might rarely be good?!??).

Day 3 - we had moved further north-west on Isabella.  8 people made a walk on lava fields to see some flamingos, but as we had heard the likelihood was 3-4 flamingos we decided to opt for the alternative dinghy ride around the rocks/coast and we were so glad we did as we had some wonderful sightings of marine iguanas swimming, sunbathing and generally hanging around!  Sea lions were playing around the dinghy and a young flightless cormorant (the type of cormorant in the Galapagos islands) was having great fun pecking at the boat and swimming around and under us.  We also saw our first blue footed boobies - quite incredible birds and lots of frigate birds.

We had our first snorkelling outing this same morning (see, no hanging around!) - the water was, as unfortunately quite often, very murky but we saw some great fish (general experience was not nearly as varied as some other places we've visited), some great and very varied starfish and we had our first turtle swimming nearby which is a great experience - so graceful.

After lunch we sailed further north to Elizabeth Bay, still on Isabella.  We had a wet dinghy ride to a ‘rock' island to see more blue boobies, penguins (unique type in the Galapagos); sea lions; marine iguanas; herons and frigate birds once more.  We then went on to a mangrove area which was beautiful - we saw an unbelievable amount of sea turtles swimming around us and several more penguins.  We also saw some sting rays in the open waters. 

Otavalo, Ecuador

The lady who collected us from the airport last week and who later brought us to Otavalo, collected us just after 9.30 this morning.  We drove back to Quito (which is 100Km, not the 250Km I think I mentioned in the beginning of the diary...) which takes normally a couple of hours but now we made 3 stops en-route.

We stopped off in Cayambe which is 'famous' for its biscuits (biscochos) - fascinating to see how they are working and under what conditions - in a small house and looking like a family run business, all very informal.  Very dry and somewhat tasteless biscuits which they seem to like with cheese.  Once we can get some more photos on the website, will add them.

We then stopped in a town called Quinche to visit the very ornate historic church - as ever in poor countries one has to remark on the wealth inside the churches.

After this we stopped off at one of the equator monuments here in Ecuador.  Very low key indication of this special place and of course from where Ecuador got its name.  It seems that the current GPS systems have indicated that these locations are not 100% accurate!

We stopped off for lunch - horrible, just wish I could put the picture on the site!  We had a 'package' that included soup (rice, meat I would rather not contemplate its origins, some vegies somewhere and a greasy liquid), chicken (hacked in pieces - even Rob wasn't sure where to start!) with chips, rice (Portuguese ideas  here!), beans and a little salad (which has to be avoided in such places!). 

Then the search was on for a battery charger for my camera - eventually found, so now we are set for the Galapagos tomorrow.  Up at 04.30 as we need to meet up at the airport at 06.15!

Peace for whoever is reading this now, no more before 7 February!!

Otavalo, Ecuador

We went to Lake Cuicocha in the morning - named after the guinea pig (national dish here) due to the two islands in the middle of the lake which was thought to resemble this mighty (?) animal.  It was again a crater lake - just under 3000m.  The lake is around 145m deep and in one place there are small bubbles coming from the volcano underneath - this keeps the temperature of the water around 14 degrees, much warmer than the lake of yesterday (around 4-5 degrees).  Wonderful views of the surrounding area also as the weather was much better today.

We were dropped in Otavalo town - drama:we needed to get a new battery charger as the universal charger we brought with us doesn't want to charge the camera batteries anymore which is a big problem. We were able to get one for Robs camera (the most important as its the underwater camera!).  No camera shops as such to be found, just the odd shop selling the odd charger!  We had lunch in town and then went to the Condor park just outside of town which is run by a Dutch guy (who we did not see), sponsored by the Dutch government.  They have a pair of condors here, the chances of seeing one in the wild now being very remote - the best count I have heard for Ecuador was around 44 birds left in the wild here.

We returned later to the town and visited every shop possible looking for a charger that would accommodate my Nikon (large) battery, without luck. We found a lovely small restaurant for dinner in town.

Otavalo, Ecuador

Otavalo is about 2535m high - and I find I am sometimes a bit breathless if I rush around/tie shoe laces etc!!!  Today we went to the Mojanda Lakes and were about 3650m - fine on the flat or going downhill but absolutely exhausting going up the smallest hill.

We were lucky with the weather - it was  very misty generally but now and then the mist cleared and we had a good view of the 2 lakes we saw (there are 3 but the 3rd lake involved a much longer trek and steeper climbs) and it was generally dry until the last (hard) half hour when it poured with rain.  Didn't make the last steep climb much fun.  We must have walked about 6-7Km - at a snails pace!  We didn't see many birds - no trees at this height, but did see some interesting plants and views.

Needless to say we were completely exhausted when we got back to the hotel around 4 (left soon after 9).  We've just been spoonfed (too tired to lift the spoon...) and off to bed!

Otavalo, Ecuador

We had a guide take us around various villages around Otavalo today - each village is specialising in a particular craft.  We first visited people who are making reed matting (the common Ecuadorian sleeps on a reed mat, or 3-4 to make it a bit softer). We then visited first an elderly master weaver, probably the most famous in Ecuador (he travels outside Ecuador demonstrating his craft also) who is using pre-Inca backstrap weaving methods.  After this we went on to a waterfal nearby and made a walk looking for birds which were very elusive!  Then on to another famous weaver - but he wasn't home!  We then visited a music instrument maker - anything from panpipes, to flutes etc.  This man also travels outside Ecuador demonstrating his skills.

We had lunch in Cotacachi, where we were yesterday.  A better lunch though than yesterday!

After lunch we went to a village specialising in woodwork - furniture and smaller items.  After this we wanted to go to another weaver that our guide knows but we probably spent 40 minutes trying to cover the last 500m due to roads being broken up; blocked or flooded - but we did get there!!

A full but very interesting day - you can really see once you leave the towns how 3rd world Ecuador is.  Cows everywhere (had to smile as we were coming home and saw the various owners taking their cows home for the night!); pigs; sheep; goats and no end of dogs.

Cotacachi, Ecuador

After a really bad sleep we were able to change our bedroom for one with twin beds.  France is bad enough with its 1m40, but I reckon this bed was 1m20!!  Since heard from someone else that they find the beds so small so I think it will be singles from now on!!  The locals are small - but they are invariably 'round', so would have thought a few more centimetres would have been good for them too - maybe they lie the other way around!

Today we visited Cotacachi, which is 12Km north of Otavalo, where we are staying.  It is known for its leather goods(jackets,belts, handbags - you name it they can make it!).  So of course I brought a handbag, simple, and Rob a wallet as his was starting to break.  It started to rain at lunchtime but that was no problem as we found a nice restaurant with some live music (guitan and pan pipes).  Cotacachi is smaller than Otavalo, but more affluent - almost no shanty housing and most houses seemed finished off which is not the general rule from what we've seen so far.

We took the local bus to Cotacachi - 25 US cents per person each way.  Good fun - all types came with us, but no animals!  Ice cream sellers, fruit sellers etc come on the bus before departure (and during!) to sell their wares - haven't worked out how they keep the ice creams solid as its quite humid at times.   The hotel owner says the local buses here are safer than those in/around Quito. 

Otavalo, Ecuador

The lady who collected us at the airport on Thursday came and picked us up at 09.00 this morning - for the 240Km drive to Otavalo, north of Quito.  She appears to be almost their personal driver!

It is possible to go by bus but if you are travelling with luggage, cameras etc, a lot of people advise against it for security reasons.  The taxis are very cheap (50 US dollars - Ecuadorian currency - for this trip!) and so the preferred means of travel for many.  A big extra plus is that you have door to door transport and a personal guide (very good for our Spanish - I was clutching my dictionary!).  Diesel around Quito cost around $1.30 but once outside we noticed it was just over the dollar (those were the days...in euros of course!).   We agreed with our lady that she will pick us up at 9.30 on Thursday for the drive back to the B&B, and that we will stop here and there (including the equator line which we crossed today) for some photos.

As we saw around Quito, and as we expected, lots of shanty housing, people (and dogs) everywhere, cows (as in one) in front gardens (or now and then pigs); and wonderful scenery.  There are 2 volcanoes here near Otavalo.

Otavalo is home to one of the continents (not just Ecuador) largest markets.  There is an animal market from 06.30 until 9 or 10 which we missed, otherwise the artisan and general (fruit/vegetable/you name it) market runs all day.  

Once we found our hotel, which was fun as it is near the centre and market day (plus I had the impression we saw even more amazing people then than later), I had a coffee (Rob is SO disappointed in the coffee here...) and we dropped our bags in the room and left for the market.  Amazing - so many different types of people, different national dress (the norm) and buzzing with activity.  We avoided the tourist market until the end and managed to find the general food market, including an indoor area which was full with people getting their lunch etc.  Rob had a dish of rice, chicken, tomato and avocado and I had a cup of tea (still full from breakfast) for $1.40!

The hotel (thanks Frances & Dirk for the good tip!) is excellent with a beautiful garden.

I have managed to add 3 photos - with difficulties - but each time I add the descrption I am thrown out of the website.  Will try to edit and add more later.

Tumbaco near Quito, Ecuador

Raining most of today so an ideal day to stay in and recover from the journey and time difference (+6 hours from Belgium; +5 hours from the UK).

Came up with a general plan for the trip once we are back from the Galapagos and Amazon on 15th February.

Got to know our hosts more - interesting couple with never ending plans for their property here near Quito.  They have been able to give us a good insight into real life here in Ecuador.  Their dog has (for us) a unique 'ball' - an avacado (today - maybe an orange tomorrow, no end of possibilities in the garden here)!!!

Tomorrow we go on to Otavalo, two hours north of Quito. where we will stay for 5 nights.

Tumbaco near Quito, Ecuador

Great flights - first to Madrid and then on to Quito in Ecuador.  Business Class Madrid to Quito - definitely a very big plus as the flight was packed (but only 11 or 12 people in Business) and loads of babies and young children!

We left Brussels at 08.00 in the rain and arrived 17.10 local time to a wet and very cloudy Quito, temperature good though (17-18??).

Our taxi lady was about 15 mins late - due to the heavy traffic - and it took us well over an hour to reach our bed and breakfast here in Tumbaco (supposedly some 30Km from Quito) over some extremely rough roads in places.  Definitely could see, for many reasons already, why hiring a car isn't recommended!!  It was dark by 18.30 so we didn't see much so far.

Wonderful couple where we are staying - he is Belgian and she is Ecuadorian.  They are running a small travel business aimed particularly at Belgians wanting to come here, plus the B&B,  They have a beautiful 13 year-old daughter who speaks excellent English, Dutch and Spanish - very bright young lady generally.

Rob is snoring already, so off to bed.

.... off to do my teeth now!!

Elewijt, Belgium

and tomorrow we pack the bags! All is ready (we think...) but will it all fit into our not so large suitcases?? We will see - if you see blue smoke coming from Elewijt, you will know there are problems!

Thursday 08:00 we fly from Brussels to Madrid and then, after a couple of hours, on to Quito (+/- 11 hour flight from Madrid).

We hope to have access to the internet in the first day or so, from then on we will write when we can and, of course, add some photos. If you see the photos deteriorate in quality, it means Rob has the helm (and you should all be wondering where I am!).

Hasta la vista!

Melanie and Rob